Unit 6: Acrylic Nails

Acrylic nails are stronger than gel nails. The acrylic formula combines liquid and powder which forms a paste and bonds to the nail plate. The powder provides the color.

Acrylic nails last 6-8 weeks and infills are usually needed every 2-3 weeks.

There are three methods for applying acrylic:

1. Directly onto the nail plate, as mentioned above.

2. Directly onto the nail plate, using a nail form to shape extensions.

3. Onto a set of false tips that are glued onto the natural nail.

We will now cover all three methods.

Application

Equipment and products:

• Acrylic powder
• Acrylic liquid
• Acrylic nail brush
• Acrylic mixing bowl
• Nail tips and glue (for method 3)
• Nail forms (for method 2)
• Pinching tool (optional – for method 2)

Method 1: Applying Acrylic to Natural Nails

1. Prep the nails by following the standard procedure.

2. Pour the acrylic liquid into the mixing bowl.

3. Place the brush into the liquid and press against the bottom of the container to squeeze out any bubbles. Then, wipe off any excess liquid.

4. Dip the brush into the powder container and glide it through the powder until the powder forms a ball.

5. Next, apply the acrylic to the nail. It is important to angle the client’s finger downward, to prevent the acrylic spilling onto the cuticle. Press the brush onto the nail plate near the base of the cuticle, ensuring the mixture does not make contact with the cuticle.

Next, drag the brush from the base towards the free edge. Ensure the acrylic spreads evenly and that you even out any bumps. Apply more acrylic if you did not use enough to cover the nail the first time.

6. Repeat the process for the rest of the nails.

7. Leave to dry naturally – it takes around 10 minutes.

8. Apply a top coat and dry/cure it, depending on the type of top coat you choose. If the top coat creates an inhibition layer, wipe it off with an alcohol wipe.

9. Apply cuticle oil.

Method 2: Applying Acrylic Using Nail Forms

A nail form is a like a template. You attach it to the fingertip and shape it to use as a guide for applying acrylic to create their desired nail shape. (If your client bites their nails, this method is better than using tips).

1. Prep the nails.

2. Prepare the acrylic, following the instructions in method one.

3. Attach the form to the client’s finger.

4. The first place to apply acrylic is where the form meets the natural nail. As per the instructions in method 1, dab some acrylic mix onto this area and spread it evenly across the width of the nail.

5. Now is the time to sculpt the nail shape. Forms have guide lines for measuring so you can ensure a consistent length for each nail. Following the guide lines, place a bead of acrylic at the free edge and use a pressing motion with the brush to flatten it and sculpt it into the required shape.

6. Next, apply acrylic to the natural nail, avoiding the cuticle. Make sure the acrylic at the section where the natural nail meets the form is thicker than on the rest of the nail. This helps prevent breakages. Make sure the nail is symmetrical before leaving it to dry.

7. Leave the nail to start drying. Before it has dried completely, you need to pinch the nail so that it forms a curve – this provides extra strength. You can use a pinching tool or pinch by hand. Lightly press on each side of the nail and hold for several seconds. Take care not to overdo this stage as it can damage the nail. Less is more.
8. Leave the nail to dry completely. You can tell whether it is dry by lightly tapping on it. If it is dry, it will make a clicking sound.

9. Remove the form. Pinch each side of the form and gently pull it out.

10. File the sidewalls to perfect the shape.

11. Buff the nail.

12. Wipe any debris off the cuticle.

13. Apply a top coat and leave to dry/cure. Wipe of the inhibition layer if necessary.

14. Apply cuticle oil.

Your client now has a set of shiny new acrylic nails!

Method 3: Applying Acrylic to Tips

1. Choose tips of a suitable size for your client’s natural nails. They should align perfectly – not too wide, not too narrow.

2. Apply a thin layer of nail glue to the underside of the artificial nail tip where it will attach to the natural nail.

3. Align the tip with the client’s natural nail and press it until it has securely stuck – this should take around 10 seconds.

4. Trim the tip if necessary and file it into the client’s desired shape. Take care not to file upwards from below the tip – this may cause it to come loose.

5. Apply an acid-free primer then apply the acrylic. Follow the steps from method 2 for applying the acrylic, to provide a strong structure where the natural nail meets the artificial tip.

Infill

The infill method for acrylic nails is similar to what you learned for gel nails:

1. Push back the cuticles.

2. Gently file the area where the new natural nail growth meets the acrylic to create a smooth transition.

3. File away the top coat and brush off the dust.
4. Apply acid-free primer to the natural nail.

5. With the client’s finger angled downward, apply a bead of acrylic to the natural nail. Press with the brush to flatten it then spread it with the brush for an even distribution. Leave to dry.

6. File and buff as needed.

7. Apply top coat.

Removal

Make sure your clients are aware they should not attempt to remove acrylic nails by themselves. Here is the correct way to do it:

1. If the client has extensions, clip them to a natural size. If they have false tips and there has been enough regrowth, you may be able to cut them off. Otherwise, using a nail drill, file off as much as you can, ensuring you do not stay in the same spot for too long (the plastic can heat quickly, causing discomfort). Acetone will take care of the rest.

2. Soak in acetone for 15 minutes. Unwrap the foil after this time and try to scrape off the residue with a cuticle pusher – if it will not come off, soak for longer. This may be necessary with false tips as the glue also needs to be removed.

3. Once all residue has come off, apply cuticle oil to rehydrate.