Unit 3: Basic Nail Techniques and Equipment

Welcome to unit three. Here, we are going to review the essential equipment you need as a nail technician. (This list will grow as we cover more advanced techniques later in the course).

After that, you will learn how to perform the fundamental techniques that make up a standard manicure or pedicure.

Equipment

List of equipment:

  • Nail file (glass files are the best option – they are durable, gentle and easy to clean).
    Buffing block
  • Nail scissors/clippers
  • Orangewood sticks (for pushing back cuticles and removing grime from underneath the nails).
  • Cuticle pusher (if you are not using an orangewood stick).
  • Cotton balls
  • Foot bath or suitable basin the client can fit both feet in
  • Towels
  • Foot file
  • Dust brush
  • Nail dryer

Products:

  • Non-acetone nail polish remover
  • Liquid cuticle remover
  • Cuticle oil
  • Moisturizer
  • Exfoliating scrub
  • Nail polish – base coat, color and top coat

Nail Drills

A nail drill is an electronic nail file which you can also use for shaping. Some models come with various drill bits and adjustable speed settings.

It is recommended that you do not use nail drills with clients until you have some experience as it can take some time to perfect the art.

Techniques

Filing

You need to know the correct way to file nails in order to shape them. Here are a few tips:

  • Start at the corners and work inwards. File in one direction only to prevent splitting and other damage – do not file side to side.
  • Work with your client’s hands supported on a flat surface with the tips facing toward you.
  • Take your time and work gradually – if you file too much, you cannot undo it.

Cutting and Shaping

Popular nail shapes and how to create them:

  • Rounded: Of all nail shapes, this is most similar to the natural shape. File the sidewalls (the side edges) straight then gradually file the corners into a subtle curve.
  • Oval: This shape is like a rounded nail, but with steeper sides. File the sidewalls straight then use a smooth, arching motion to file from the sides towards the top until the oval shape is achieved.
  • Square: Straight sides and free edge, with sharp but slightly curved corners. File the sidewalls and free edge straight, then shape the corners to complete the look.
  • Squoval: Essentially, a square with softer edges. Follow the same method as for square nails, ensuring a more subtle shape is achieved with more rounded corners.
  • Stiletto: There are different types of pointed nails and the stiletto is one of them. It is best suited for nails that are 2.5 cm long, minimum. Mark where the tip will be, then file each side until the point is achieved.
  • Almond: Similar to the oval but slightly more pointed. Mark the middle of the tip, then file the sidewalls at a 45 degree angle. To ensure it is not too pointed, round off the tip.
  • Ballerina: This is long like the stiletto but has a square tip. Mark the middle of the tip, then file the sidewalls at a 45 degree angle. Then, file the free edge straight.

Buffing

Buffing gives nails a smooth and shiny appearance which is great when your client does not want to apply polish. However, it also helps polish grip to the nails better.

A nail buffing block has two sides – a rough side for smoothing the nail’s surface and a smooth side for shining.

How to buff nails:

1. Start with the rough side. Move the block over the nail in one direction, from base to tip – do not move it back and forth. Around eight strokes per nail is enough. Take care not to overdo it as this can cause damage. Also avoid pressing too hard on the nails.

2. Buff the edges of the nail. You can also buff the free edge (the edge at the tip) – this is useful to smooth the edge after clipping.

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for each nail.

4. Brush off any debris.

5. Use the smooth side to shine each nail. Use the same motion as when using the rough side, but this time, you can use more than eight strokes if needed. Buff until the surface becomes shiny.

6. Brush off any remaining debris. You may prefer to use a damp cloth at this stage to ensure all dust is removed.

Polishing

In a basic manicure, there are three types of polish to apply:

  • The base coat: One coat – gives the nail an even texture and prolong the manicure.
  • Color: Your client’s chosen color – two coats for best coverage.
  • The top coat: One coat – boosts shine and prevents chipping. (Do not use a top coat if your client wants a matte finish).

Apply polish to the center of the nail to ensure it does not spill onto the cuticle. Paint from base to tip, starting in the center and moving on to the sides. You should now have a thin layer of polish.

Next, you need to “cap the free edge” – this technique ensures the polish adequately covers the free edge. To cap the free edge, place the brush at the tip and use a gentle scrubbing motion back and forth, along the free edge. Finally, glide the brush back over the nail plate to smooth out the color.

For short nails, pull back the skin below the nail to prevent color from spilling onto the skin. For glitter polish, apply with a dabbing technique for even coverage.

Ensure each coat has dried before applying the next. Nail drying machines use air-drying or UV lamps. For standard polish, air dry the nails.

Cuticle Pushing

As you learned in unit two, you push back cuticles after applying cuticle remover. To push back the cuticles, you need an orangewood stick or a cuticle pusher with a rounded tip.

1. Place the client’s hand flat on the work surface.

2. Using the rounded edge of the orangewood stick or cuticle pusher, start at the base of the nail, gently pushing the skin of the cuticle towards the edge. Make sure you do not apply too much pressure, and avoid any scraping motions.

3. Work your way along the sides of the nails, gently pushing the skin towards the edge (the lateral nail folds).

4. Using a warm, damp washcloth, gently wipe the cuticles.

After pushing back the cuticles, they should look like a smooth, thin line.

Removing Calluses

As part of the exfoliation process in pedicures you may remove calluses from the client’s skin. Use a foot file to remove these hardened parts of the skin. File each spot for up to 30 seconds at a time. Don’t spend too much time on one area without taking a break, as this can make the skin sore.

If you cannot remove calluses after filing an area once or twice, it is best that the client visits a podiatrist.

Now you understand the basics – from unit four onwards, we will cover some more advanced nail services.