Unit 4: Gel Nails

Gel nails use a liquid gel formula where semi-solid monomers (a type of molecule) harden when exposed to UV light.

Gel lasts longer than standard polish – up to 14 days without chipping. The outcome is a shinier, more durable manicure. Towards the end of this period, the gel may start lifting at the corners but this can be prevented through correct application.

Gel extensions are another option. Extended tips are applied to the nails and the gel is applied in the same way as usual.

Gel nails should be avoided for clients with weak, thin or brittle nails, or any other nail conditions. You can advise the client to use a formaldehyde-free nail strengthening product if they want to get gel, shellac or acrylic nails in future.

Some medications can make clients sensitive to UV rays (including antibiotics, some antidepressants, heart medications, chemotherapy drugs, over-the-counter medications like ibuprofen, and many others).

The skin may have a bad reaction to UV rays while taking these medications. During consultation, ask the client if they have experienced sensitivity to sunlight or UV in other forms and if needed, recommend an alternative nail service.

Now, let us find out how to create the perfect gel manicure.

Application

Use gel that does not contain any of these ingredients: formaldehyde, toluene and dibutyl phthalate (DBP). These ingredients cause inflammation and other, more severe unwanted effects with long-term use. Thankfully, many professional gels and polishes do not contain them.

Now, let us go through the steps for applying gel nails. (Follow these steps after prepping the nails, as discussed in unit two).

1. Apply the base coat – this is crucial as it ensures the color gel can adhere to the nail. You need to use a base coat designed for gel. Ensure the base coat does not touch the cuticle – this prevents lifting, prolonging the manicure. Cap the free edge, then cure and harden under the UV lamp for 30-60 seconds.

2. Color gel application – apply the color gel to the natural or acrylic nail, cap the free edge and cure under the UV lamp for a maximum of two minutes. Repeat the process for the second coat.

3. Top coat – like the base coat, the top coat should be designed for use with gel. When applying, avoid the cuticle. Cure for up to 60 seconds.

4. Wipe off the inhibition layer. Once the nails are dry, there may still be a layer that feels sticky – this is called the inhibition layer. Using an alcohol wipe, wipe each nail to remove it.

UV lamps are essential for drying gel nails as they cannot cure by air alone. It is a good idea for your client to wear gloves or apply sunscreen to their hands before using the machine. Also note, there are LED lamps on the market but they also emit UV rays.

Infill

When the client’s nails have started to grow after the manicure, there will be a gap at the cuticle without gel. Infill is the process of filling in this area – if the client is not ready to have the gel removed.

1. Filing – You want a seamless transition from the natural nail to the gel. This means filing the gel at the base, near the cuticle. You also need to remove the top coat. So, file the base of the gel until there is a smooth transition (don’t file the natural nail), and gently file the nail plate to remove the top coat. You only need to file until the shine is removed. (Note: This step is more efficient with a nail drill).

2. Clean off the dust.

3. Push back the cuticles.

4. Apply the gel color, followed by the top coat. The application technique is slightly different for infills:

• Apply a drop of gel towards the base of the nail, where the previous gel ends.
• Gently push it towards the cuticle, ensuring it does not actually touch the cuticle.
• Smooth it along the rest of the nail, towards the tip.
• Place it under the lamp to cure.

Follow these steps for each coat.

5. Remove the sticky layer with an alcohol wipe.

Removal

Clients should not attempt to remove gel nails at home as they may cause damage. Here is the correct way to remove them:

1. File off the top coat.

2. Soak a cotton ball in acetone and place it on each nail, then wrap it in foil. Wrap each hand in a warm towel to improve the client’s experience.

3. Wait 10-15 minutes.

4. After this time has elapsed, check if the gel is easy to remove. Unwrap the foil on one finger and check whether the gel can wipe off easily. If not, give it more time. If the gel is stubborn, place a new acetone-soaked cotton ball and wrap with foil again.

5. When the gel is ready to come off with little effort, unwrap the foil and wipe it off with the cotton balls.

6. Buff the nails.

7. Apply cuticle oil. It is important to rehydrate the cuticles after a gel manicure.

Clients should have a break between gel manicures – the nails need to breathe and restore themselves.