Unit 2: Massage, Manicure and Pedicure

A massage makes your clients’ experience much more relaxing. It enhances their feeling of being pampered and improves their overall wellbeing. There is plenty of scientific evidence documenting the benefits of massage.

Contraindications

If the client has a fever, or swelling or injury in the hands or feet, you should not massage those areas. If they have athlete’s foot or varicose veins, do not give them a foot massage.

If the client has bruises, cuts, bunions or corns, you can still massage them, avoiding putting pressure directly on those areas.

Take care working around the joints of clients with arthritis and apply lighter pressure. Also apply lighter pressure if the client is elderly or pregnant.

Diabetics and clients with low blood pressure should seek advice from their physician before having any type of massage. If they have been advised that it is safe, apply lighter pressure during the procedure.

Hand Massage Techniques

Spend 3-5 minutes massaging each hand and begin with gentle strokes to warm up the muscles. You can increase the pressure later. Work towards the heart – it improves circulation.

Before you start, ask what type of pressure the client wants. Once you start massaging, ask whether the pressure is okay or if they would prefer lighter or firmer pressure. Spend the most time on the most tense areas.

There are four basic massage techniques:

  • Effleurage – long, sweeping strokes.
  • Petrissage – kneading motions, pressing the muscles with more pressure.
  • Friction – rubbing movements, back and forth over the skin.
  • Pressure point – working on knotted areas with direct, firmer pressure.

1. Begin the massage with effleurage movements, working towards the heart. Apply lotion or massage oil and begin with long strokes from the top of the hand, up to the elbow. Next, do the same on the underside of the arm (some prefer to massage the top and underside at the same time during the start of the massage).

2. Work the same areas using petrissage strokes.

3. Move to the palm of the hands via the wrists. Reduce the pressure when moving your hands over the wrists.

4. Use your thumb to apply pressure to the palm of the hand using petrissage and/or pressure point movements – whichever is more suitable. Areas that commonly hold the most tension are the fleshy parts next to the thumb and below the index finger.

5. Massage the fingers. One by one, massage each finger on each side, with gentle gliding movements from bottom to top.

6. Repeat on the other hand.

7. End the massage with long, effleurage strokes as explained in step 1.

Foot Massage Techniques

Spend 5-10 minutes massaging each foot.

1. Use effleurage strokes on top and bottom of the foot, towards the heart.

2. On the sole of the foot, deepen the pressure with petrissage strokes.

3. Next, work on the tight areas on the base of the foot using the pressure point technique. Common areas of tension are the ball of the foot and heel arch. You will spend the most time on this stage. You can also incorporate friction strokes on the sole of the foot.

4. Massage the toes using the same technique as for fingers.

5. Gently massage the ankles and around the bones to each side of the ankle with light petrissage strokes.

6. Finish the massage with long, effleurage strokes on the top and bottom of the foot.

7. Repeat on the client’s other foot.

Depending on the time available, you can also massage the calves. Like the sole of the foot, this area needs more pressure.

Manicure Process, Products and Aftercare

Manicures are not only about making your clients’ nails look good. They promote healthy nail plates, cuticles and skin. We will now go through the steps of a standard manicure.

Step 1: Consultation

Before you start the manicure, you need some information about the client’s needs. Ask the following questions:

  • Do you have any allergies?
  • Have you had a bad reaction to any cosmetic products in the past?
  • Are you taking any medications?
  • Do you have any nail or skin conditions?
  • How would you like your nails to look?
  • Is the manicure for a special occasion or do you want a more everyday style?

These are some general suggestions. You can ask anything else relevant to your client’s chosen treatment.

Next, examine their hands and nails to check for any areas that may not be suitable to work on. Look out for cuts, rashes, irritation and signs of any of the nail conditions discussed in unit one.

Step 2: Clean the nails

If your client is wearing nail polish, you need to remove it. You should wipe their nails with remover, even if they have no polish on. This removes any dirt, oil or other residue that could affect the new polish you will apply. A non-acetone remover is recommended because they are more gentle.

Step 3: Cut, file, shape and buff

If your client’s nails need clipping, now is the time. When all nails are at an equal length, file them to the client’s desired shape. Buffing is a technique for smoothing the surface of the nail, leaving it smooth and shiny. You’ll learn how to do these steps in unit three.

Step 4: Cuticle care

Apply a liquid cuticle remover to each nail to help dissolve and remove dead skin cells. ProLinc Cuticle Eliminator is a popular choice among professionals. Other popular brands include Sally Hansen and Deborah Lipman.

Apply the cuticle remover and leave for 1-2 minutes. (if you leave it on longer than that, it may irritate the skin). Next, wipe with a damp cloth and push back the cuticles. You will learn how to do this in unit three.

Step 6: Exfoliate

Now it is time to exfoliate the hands, wrists and forearms using a scrub. There are endless products to choose from. Spend several minutes exfoliating each hand and be sure the client is comfortable. Do not scrub too rigorously as it may irritate the skin and cause discomfort.

Wash off the product and use a towel to dry off their hands and arms. Remove any residue from under the nails with an orangewood stick (more about those later).

Step 7: Moisturize and massage

Use a moisturizing product on their hands and forearms – again, there are endless professional-quality products to choose from.

After massaging, apply cuticle oil. Cuticle oil is a special moisturizer for cuticles. It also promotes nail growth. Dab or brush on a small amount to each nail and massage it in.

Step 8: Apply polish

The final step in a basic manicure is to apply polish. We will cover that in more detail in unit three.

Aftercare advice depends on the type of nail treatment (i.e. gel nails), but some general tips for the client are:

  • Use moisturizing hand cream often
  • Wear protective gloves when gardening and cleaning
  • Avoid harsh soaps
  • Massage cuticles with cuticle oil regularly (once per day before bed is enough for most people).

Pedicure Process, Products and Aftercare

Some steps in the pedicure process are similar to that of manicures but there are a few extra step involved.

Step 1: Consultation

Follow the same procedure as for manicures, asking about allergies, health, style and so on. Diabetics must take extra care of their feet. While you should ensure all clients are treated safely, it is especially important if your client says they have diabetes. Their physician may even recommend that they avoid pedicures.

Step 2: Clean the nails

Remove polish from the toenails and wipe remover over the toenails even if the client is not wearing any polish.

Step 3: Foot bath

Soak the client’s feet in a basin or foot spa for around 10 minutes. This helps soften the skin and the cuticles, making the next steps easier.

Step 4: Exfoliate

Use an exfoliating foot scrub and rinse thoroughly. You may also use a foot file to remove hard skin and calluses. More instructions for removing calluses are coming up in unit three.

Step 5: Cuticle care

Cuticles are easier to remove after soaking the feet but you can apply cuticle remover if you wish. Then, push back the cuticles.

Step 6: Cut, file, shape and buff

Next, trim the toenails and file them to the desired shape then buff them.

Step 7: Moisturize and massage

Massage the feet and apply foot moisturizer and cuticle oil.

Aftercare advice:

  • Always dry feet thoroughly to prevent fungal infections.
  • Change socks and tights daily.
  • Allow feet to dry and change socks as soon after exercise as possible.
  • Apply moisturizer after showering/bathing, especially on the heels.
  • Apply cuticle oil often.

You’ve now come to the end of Unit 2 and have learned a great deal about the theory and practice of manicures and pedicures.